ICELAND 2023
A 2-Week Sea Kayaking Journey in Northern Iceland
In the winter of 2023, my kayaking friend Dick Lampman contacted me about a sea kayaking trip he was interested in doing in northern Iceland. Through his BCU 4-star certification and sea kayaking symposia, he had connections with John Carmody from the east coast of the U.S., and had heard about a fantastic trip opportunity with Sea Kayak Iceland. This organization offers trips of different lengths and difficulty in Iceland, and Dick and I both loved the idea of a 2-week trip on the northwestern coast of Iceland, paddling along the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. This was not to be a typical guided trip, as SKI provided kayaks, local knowledge, and critical landing permits along the private property of the coast, but expected us to be fully independent and make expedition decisions. I felt honored to be invited by Dick, and thrilled at the prospect of traveling in such an exotic location.
Route Overview: 129 Nautical Miles, 11 Paddling Days
Pre-Trip Logistics: Our kayaking friend Jerry Leugers, also a member of the Western Sea Kayakers in the San Francisco Bay area, was joining us on this trip. Once we had reserved a spot for the 2 week expedition that included the Hornstrandir Reserve, we had a Zoom meeting with the U.S. organizer John Carmody, a BCU 5 star Instructor and long-time kayaker instructor trainer. As I had no official BCU star certification, I was quizzed a bit about my experience. I counted up my prior multi-day kayaking expeditions and was surprised that I was at 17 total. I described some adventures and my kayaking training. John later told me I had more expedition experience than most of the other attendees, but I was happy to have been accepted as sufficiently experienced for the trip. We got some advice about what not to bring (no headlamp; you won’t need it with the midnight sun) and what to bring (warm clothes and rain gear; the climate was described to be “like Alaska”). We were also quizzed about our tents. I described the Mountain Hardwear 2-person tent I took on my kayaking expeditions to Alaska, and John commented in an email that he had that tent, but he would be “very worried about taking it to Iceland”. Apparently the frequent 40+ knot winds are famous for completely shredding and destroying tents. Dick and I read accounts in some forums of paddler’s tents getting shredded and blown away in the Icelandic winds. We both gritted our teeth and decided to shell out the money for the recommended Hilleberg tents. Dick got a Staika, which most of the other folks had, and I got a Soulo (red label), which was demonstrated to withstand 58 mph winds. The Staika was simply too big for most of the wilderness campsites I typically used.
I had just two days to clean my gear and prepare for my flight to Iceland, after driving back home from my relaxing kayaking trip in the Broughton Archipelago off of Vancouver Island. It was plenty of time, as I had prepared all my dehydrated food previously, and had a thorough packing list.
Isafjörður
Getting there: Sea Kayak Iceland is an outstanding sea kayaking guiding organization based in Isafjörður, a charming coastal town in northwestern Iceland. After flying in to Reykjavik, I was met at the small airport by John, instantly recognizable by his distinctive gray beard, and Gummi, a kind and thoughtful Iceland native who was to accompany us on the trip. Dick and Jerry had arrived the day before, and we waited in the small arrivals area for the remaining folks from the U.S. east coast and eastern Canada. With the gear loaded in the large van, we stopped nearby to pick up Dick and Jerry, then had a six-hour drive to Isafjörður. The requirement to drive around long fjords makes travel in Iceland a slow affair. I checked in to the Mánagasting Guesthouse, a modest lodging that suited my needs for the 2-night stay.
The next morning, we had a leisurely breakfast of pastries in a nearby café, before walking down to the Sea Kayak Iceland (SKI) shop, owned by Guðni Páll Viktorsson. Guðni was young and fit, and clearly took his job seriously; all the gear was in excellent shape, and he ensured everyone had the necessary safety gear, and that the kayaks they chose fit them well. He made adjustments to padding and seat position and everyone was happy with their kayak selection. I elected to paddle a plastic P&H Scorpio MV, a classic expedition kayak with plenty of room for all my gear, that was nevertheless a much better fit than my Priijon Kodiak. I was told that the Low-Volume Scorpio didn’t have sufficient room for a 2-week kayak expedition. As it was, I was able to carry extra gear for the guides in my hatches, and I was thrilled that the kayak didn’t feel like a giant, overly stable barge like some expedition kayaks rented by guiding companies.
After everyone had ensured that their gear fit in their chosen kayak, we packed up all our gear in the required IKEA bags for transport the next day to our launch site in Aðalvik Bay. Guðni had designed the expedition to provide boat transport to this bay, as otherwise the first kayaking day would require a long slog across open seas against opposing winds, right when everyone was still jet-lagged. So we had a relaxing day, with time for last-minute shopping, followed by an excellent barbecue dinner at the home of Guðni’s family. It was a great chance to get to know our fellow expeditioners, many of whom paddled together in the eastern U.S. In addition to our savvy guides Guðni, Gummi, John Carmody from Maine, and Anula Jochym (a very friendly and knowledgeable BC Sea Kayak-certified Coach and Leader), the client paddlers were a wonderful couple Tim and Brenda, Rich, Cam, and Bill (all from Rhode Island), and Thomas from Canada, as well as Dick, Jerry, and myself from the San Francisco Bay area. It was a total of 13 highly experienced paddlers.
The following day was departure day, although a few delays meant we weren’t loading up the transport boat until mid-afternoon. We all pitched in to make sure the IKEA bags of gear and all the kayaks were safely loaded and strapped in, and we donned our drysuits and PFD’s for the ride across the bay. The scenery was already spectacular: wide vistas of tall cliffs and snow-covered mountains in cool afternoon weather.
Views from the boat ride to Aðalvik Bay
Upon arrival, we took turns getting transported to shore, where we waded in and helped get the bags and kayaks floated or walked in above the high tide line.
Waiting for the next Zodiac for unloading kayaks and gear at our first campsite
There was only a small emergency shelter in the bay, so we had plenty of room to spread out our tent sites. While we prepared our dinners, an arctic fox came by, still in his summer coat, no doubt attracted by the smells of the food. Before the trip, I had thought I’d be thrilled to see either arctic fox or puffin, and here were the foxes up close! I was able to capture some photos with my super-zoom Canon HXS-50.
7-19 Day 1: Aðalvik Bay to Fljótavik: 12 nmi*
Our objective for the day was to paddle out around Straumnes Point, and along the coast within the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve to a campsite in the bay at Fljótavik. Compared to my usual schedule for sea kayak expeditions, the pace was very leisurely. I’m accustomed to getting on the water early (preferably without rushing), in an effort to make some distance before the afternoon winds pick up. However, I was to adjust to the fact that the midnight sun meant we could paddle all day, or take a break during the day, get back on the water in the evening, and still have plenty of daylight left to set up camp. Thus, on our first morning we met at 9:30 am for a weather update, which Guðni was getting via satellite transmission from a colleague in south/central Iceland. The weather reports are apparently only accurate for 24 to a max of 48 hours, so we required frequent updates. We had a long group discussion, before packing up and launching around 11 am. I was anxious about the Icelandic winds, and worried that I might struggle keeping up with the group if the winds got too high. It wasn’t until several days into the trip that I realized that wasn’t going to be a significant problem—I could paddle much faster in the Scorpio than in my Kodiak. I also wasn’t used to expeditioning with such a large group, and it certainly made launching easier: we all grouped up 4 or 6 to each kayak and carried the fully loaded boats to the shore. What luxury, and much better for the few fiberglass kayaks in the group!
Rounding Straumnes Point was straigthforward, and as we proceed east on the spectacular coast, we kept a leisurely pace. Eventually I noticed we were making very slow progress, even individually. Our paddling strategy was to remain more or less together at all times, and to wait up for others who were behind. The wind wasn’t that high at ~15-18 knots. Iceland uses meters/sec for wind speed, which we got accustomed to multiplying by 2 to ‘translate’ to approximate speed in knots. We soon realized we must be in an opposing current, which Guðni and others hadn’t experienced previously at that location. The combination of wind and current was significant, such that when we stopped paddling we would move backward slowly. We agreed to paddle hard, heading closer to land at a ferry angle and regroup on a spit of land just outside Rekavikurvatn Bay.
Heading toward Straumnes Point
The issue of opposing currents at this location was puzzling to the Icelandic guides. They pointed out later that we were only about 13 nmi from the pack ice (!!), which could have had an effect. See my discussion of open ocean currents from my 2024 trip to Norway.
We landed for the evening at 7 pm, on a cobblestone beach with a partial concrete ramp. There was less space for the kayaks on this landing site, but we spread out and found enough space for our tents along the steep cliff. For these first days inside the Hornstrandir reserve, we had to land at pre-designated campsites with (vault) toilet facilities, to maintain the pristine environment of the nature reserve.
I had noticed when we stopped for lunch, or if I was stopped on the water, I quickly got cold in my drysuit. Happily, there was a small enclosed hut that we used for cooking and talking about the day’s paddle, and planning for the next day’s options depending on the weather report. With 13 people cooking, it rapidly warmed up in the small hut.
7-20 Day 2: Fljótavik to Hlöðuvik: 10 nmi* The forecast was quite favorable, with a low E wind and only 1.2 meter swell. Guðni had predicted we might not paddle too fast for the next few days, because we would be too busy gaping at the sights. We launched before 10 a.m. under glassy condtions to round the point and paddle along the immensely tall cliffs interspersed with occasional outer rocks and sea stacks. The views were unlike anything I had experienced while kayaking—truly magical!
We started seeing a huge abundance of gulls, northern fulmars, and puffins on the water. Thomas and Anula broke off from the group to go fishing from their kayaks, and they caught several arctic cod that they later shared with us for dinner — delicious! In midafternoon, we reluctantly landed through tiny surf on another beautiful beach and campsite. It was indeed a fantastic day of paddling.
Another incredible campsite!
7-21 Day 3: Hlöðuvik to Hornvik: 8.6 nmi*
It was quite chilly overnight. In the morning, we gathered up for the forecast, which was excellent: light, variable winds of only 2-4 m/s (4-8 knots) and surf of only 1.8-2 meters. The SKI folks were not planning for a high-mileage day, because they knew what sights were in store. We launched around 11 a.m. in tiny surf, and began the most magical day of paddling in my life!
The steep cliffs we paddled by were the breeding ground for literally millions of seabirds, including Northern Fulmar, Kittiwakes, Auks, Murres, and Gulls, and we also saw some Puffins on the water. Anula told us there were estimated to be 2 million seabirds nesting on these cliffs alone. The air was filled with the sound of cawing and calling birds, and they circled around us on both the land and the water. Huge stretches of surrounding cliff walls were covered with nesting birds and chicks. Words simply can’t describe the magic of this environment. I truly felt as if I was paddling in a mystical place on the top of the world, with the empty sea stretching as far as the eye could see to our left, and the steep cliffs full of nesting birds to our right. Guðni was correct, we often stopped paddling and simply stared upward. Sadly, a few baby birds had tumbled from their nest, and they swam about screeching for their parent, or paddling next to a protective parent. They were unlikely to survive in the extremely cold waters, and some were barely in feathers. I seemed to be paddling within a protected place in nature where we could witness true ‘bird wilderness’, almost like discovering a previously uninhabited and eternally wild place on earth. I felt so lucky to be able to witness this environment, especially under such perfect paddling conditions. Although it was challenging taking telephotos in a bobbing kayak, I dug my Canon HS-50x out of my deck bag to try to capture some close-ups.
Even more reluctantly than the previous day, we landed near 4 p.m. in the bay of Hornvik in tiny surf. Others were camping at this location, as it was open to hikers, and there was a bigger cabin there as well, apparently housing local caretakers. A mother fox was doing her best to keep her rambunctious fox kits in line, and they were tussling and playing with each other, quite unbothered by the presence of humans around.
7-22 Day 4: Hornvik to Barðsvik: 14.8 nmi*
The day’s paddle was a potential ‘crux’ move, paddling out around the “Horn” point of Hornbjarg, which could be problematic as for any prominent ocean point, depending on conditions. Lucky us—the forecast was again very favorable (light winds for several days). The steep cliffs meant we would have little opportunity to stop, so we made a quick beach stop for a bio-break and snack just south of the point.
With such calm conditions, paddling around the Horn turned out to be a non-event, and the cliffs remained dramatic. More steep waterfalls followed, and we paddled leisurely south toward Hornbjarg and it’s pretty lighthouse perched on the remote cliff. It was a fairly leisurely paddle southeastward, where we chose to avoid some of the deep bays to save mileage. There was very mild surf in the bay at Barðsvik, where John C. found a more protected deep channel. I landed second, and helped others to land and haul kayaks up the beach. Because I was cold and damp, I chose to keep warm by going scouting for a water source. I found a steady trickle on a steep cliffside just east of our landing site, and we were happy not to have to go climbing up the hills looking for water. The campsite was beautiful, filled with wildflowers of multiple colors.
SLIDESHOW: ICELANDIC WILDFLOWERS
7-23 Day 5: Barðsvik to Reykjarfjirði: 9.7 nmi*
The wind was again light when we launched through small surf, and the fog contributed to the other-worldly and mystic atmosphere of our day’s paddle. The fog remained throughout the day, but visibility was not so restricted as to significantly affect paddling. John gave a lecture on navigating in the fog with a compass, as he is disdainful of GPS use. Our pace was quite slow, and we stopped a few times for a bio-break or lunch, before landing at a beach at Reykjarfirdir. I was quite cold throughout the day, especially as we were not paddling fast, and Tim kindly loaned me his cag for a short while.
Guðni had arranged with the locals to borrow an ATV, which we used to load up our gear in IKEA bags to be carted a few kilometers away to our designated campsite. The site was again lush with green grass, and was the home of an arctic tern colony. These terns were aggressive, swooping and diving on us as we walked around the campsite to the privy. We had to wave our arms in the air and protect our heads, otherwise they would have drawn blood with their sharp beaks, as our guides could attest.
But the very best part of this campsite was the public pool formed from naturally occurring hotsprings! On such a cold, damp day, everyone was very excited to spend some time there. We had been instructed to bring swimsuits prior to the trip. The pool was quite fancy for being out in the wilderness, with all the amenities of a public pool, including showers, concrete floor and walls, and sitting platforms to cool off from the hot water. Some of our team spent quite a few hours there, basking in the steam and relaxing. Out of respect for privacy, I only snapped a quick photo of the pool from a distance. The soaks in the pool and the hot shower afterward were heavenly!
7-24 Day 6: Reykjarfjirði to Drangavik: 14 nmi*
The forecast for this day was favorable, but the winds and rain were expected to increase on the following two days. It was quite cold after launching, and my hands were cold the entire day, in spite of wearing some nitrile gloves below my neoprene gloves (see Notes below). I had on my warmest fleece under my drysuit, which helped. Because of the fog, we skipped across some of the bays to make more mileage, and attempted to increase our pace by alternating the pace-setters of the group. In the afternoon, we paddled into an open river mouth and camped on an elevated grassland. The weather remained cold, damp, and foggy, and we spent more time in our tents that evening.
7-25 Day 7: Drangavik to Nordurfjördur: 12.5 nmi*
The morning weather remained cold and wet, with rain and a small increase in the wind, a cross-wind from the NE. We all agreed to make the 6 mile crossing to save time, and with our compasses and pod dynamics we made good time. I was quite cold all day, particularly my hands. We paused briefly at a reef about 1/3 of the way across, before nearing the peninsula of Krossnesfjall. Once we turned the corner at Krossnes, the seas were more protected, and it was an easy paddle into the deep bay, where we landed to camp in a large field. The rain continued, with promise of much higher wind over the next 2 days. Based on the forecast, we decided to take a rest day(s), and Guðni was able to rent access to the large warming hut for us, which was a wonderful place to start to dry out wet gear and get organized. Some folks walked the 2.5 miles each way to enjoy a geothermal community pool with showers. Plus, we staked our tents down thoroughly.
It was only a 2 km walk in the rain to a small market and a small local restaurant that served delicious food — I had a fantastic hamburger with bearnaise sauce and fries!
The forecast for the next day was more rain and wind, and after a lengthy group discussion, we voted to stay another day at Nordurfjördur, rather than paddling a short distance in the poor weather. Although this was somewhat risky given the unreliable forecasts and possibliity of worse weather, this decision was the correct one in hindsight.
Group Dinner at Nordurfjördur
From left to right: Jerry Leugers, Guðni Pall, Bill Fournier, Cris Lewis, Dick Lampman, Thomas Jagoe, Rich Coupland, Brenda Rashleigh, Tim Gleason, John Carmody, Anula Jochym (in a sweater she designed and knitted herself) and Gummi Breiðdal. Missing is Cam, the photographer.
7-28 Day 10: Nordurfjördur to Kaldbaksvik: 16.8 nmi*
By the next morning the rain had subsided but it was quite cold. The wind had increased to 14 knots from the northeast, still not too high, but it created more of a wind chill. Once we rounded the point, the wind increased and became a tailwind. Keeping track of the rhythm of the wind waves and the boomers required our attention, but I enjoyed the big following seas. The nearest buoy reported swell of 5 to 7 feet, and we paddled further apart from each other to avoid getting side surfed. With 2 fleece layers plus a thermal shirt under my regular fleece jacket, I was sufficiently warm inside my dry suit. But my hands remained miserably cold, especially when we stopped for a lunch break near the airstrip at Gjögur. The wind increased in the afternoon, and one of our party capsized when they approached too close to a boomer. Gudni and Anula broke all speed records in getting the paddler back in their kayak! As we entered Kaldbaksvik bay the wind increased even more; judging from the spindrift on the waves and the exertion required when we had to paddle against it briefly to our campsite, it seemed to be more than 25 knots. I was so thankful it was a tailwind most of the day; how lucky is that?
7-29 Day 11: Kaldbaksvik to Bjarnarnes: 10.5 nmi*
The morning was cold and drizzly, and we had plenty of time for camp chores before our launch around 11:30 a.m. We took advantage of a fast ebb to exit the bay, and we paddled with a NE cross-wind around the point. We stopped at the point at Strakey for a quick bio-break and snack, and then I enjoyed paddling the NE following seas for the 5 nmi crossing of the Bjarnarfjörður bay. Winds were at 15-16 knots, with plenty of whitecaps. Guðni had kindly loaned me a pair of his NRS gloves, which were much warmer than my Glacier Glove neoprene gloves.
As we approached our campsite in a little cove at Bjarnarnes, two Icelandic horses and a foal trotted out of our campsite, and the guides stretched some ropes across our tent area to avoid any unexpected trampling. I found a perfect private spot off to the left of the cove, in an area sheltered from the wind.
Happily, the forecast for the next two days was favorable. Even with our 2 weather days, we were well positioned to make our final destination on time, and even had time for a day paddle to the island of Grimsey**.
7-30 Day 12: Day Paddle to Grimsey Island 7 nmi*
The group had voted to stay an extra day at this delightful campsite and visit Grimsey Island** as a day paddle, rather than spending an extra day in Holmavik. I was so happy with this choice! The weather had improved, with lighter winds and more sunshine, so it was a bit warmer. The guides had obtained special permission to land on the south end of Grimsey Island, which is a protected bird sanctuary. Home to nesting puffins, eider ducks, kittiwakes, and gulls, it was a magical place! As we approached, the birds were circling around the island in the air and on the sea, and we landed on the south end of the island on a beach away from any nests. Interestingly, the birds seemed completely unbothered by our presence, even when we took a short walk up the hills. The puffins seemed far more interested in catching their fish, and completely ignored us. Having wanted desperately to see puffins on this trip, I couldn’t believe my luck, and I was glad I brought my super-zoom camera. Nevertheless, we didn’t stay long, wanting to be respectful of their home. The island had an old winch apparently used for supplies, and some artifacts and bones displayed on a picnic table.
GRIMSEY ISLAND SLIDESHOW
We reluctantly paddled back to our campsite from Grimsey Island, exhilarated by the fantastic sights of nature, and pushing against a moderate headwind that increased somewhat as we approached camp. I was relieved to see that I had no problem keeping up with the group; my epiphany was that I need an expedition kayak that fits me! Guðni, Gummi, Anula and Bill broke off from the group for a quick stop at a shop on the mainland point. As we still had time in the afternoon, I went for a short hike on the nearby trail, but couldn’t get far before I came to an electric fence. I had a chance to see the Icelandic mare and her foal up close before heading back. After dinner, we were to discover the reason for the afternoon ‘supply run’: Guðni broke out a huge chocolate fudge cake to celebrate the last night of our trip!
7-31 Day 13: Final Day’s Paddle from Bjarnarnes to Holmavik 10.2 nmi*
We had an easy paddle in mild wind south to the point at Drangsnes and then west into the bay at Holmavik, our final destination. I felt sad that the trip was over, even though hot showers awaited at the municipal pool near our campsite, a kilometer or two away from the beach.
We stopped for a group photo after unloading all our gear and preparing the kayaks for their trailer ride back across Iceland.
We had time for a fancy group dinner that evening, where we toasted our guides and the success of the trip. I had to tell the SKI folks that this was truly the very best kayaking expedition I’d experienced so far, out of 18! I was so sorry that the trip was over, but I was looking forward to the next several days where I planned to go hiking near Reykjavik before departing from Iceland.
Photo by Guðni Viktorsson. From L: Anula Jochym, Gummi Breiðdal, Thomas Jagoe, Dick Lampman, Rich Coupland, Tim Gleason, Brenda Rashleigh, Cam, John Carmody, Jerry Leugers, Bill Fournier, and myself. Missing is Guðni, the photographer.
This was indeed the very best sea kayaking expedition I have ever experienced, out of 18 at time of writing. I highly recommend this adventure for self-sufficient, very experienced sea kayakers who are not intimidated by the possibility of high winds and adverse weather conditions. Sea Kayak Iceland is an outstanding outfitter and guide: in addition to being advanced and certified sea kayakers, they are safety conscious, provide high-quality and well-maintained gear, and are thoughtful, considerate, and kind. You couldn’t ask for more from SKI, and I highly recommend them! I am immensely grateful to Dick Lampman for inviting me on this trip, and grateful also to the SKI leaders Guðni, Anula, John Carmody, and Gummi. John in particular did a great job organizing our group in advance of the trip, ensuring we were all well-prepared for the adventure. We got quite lucky with the weather, experiencing minimal headwinds, and very little of the exceedingly high winds that Iceland is famous for. I met wonderful fellow paddlers on this trip, and I hope to paddle with them again soon. The remote location of this Hornstrandir adventure contributed to the magic: the seabird colonies, arctic foxes, and the puffins were unique among any other sea kayaking expedition I have experienced. It will be hard to top this as my favorite kayaking expedition ever!
Except where indicated, photos by Cris Lewis: Olympus TG-6, Canon Powershot 50HXS
LOGISTICS AND NOTES
*All mileage is provided from GPS tracking, which will be a slight overestimate of actual mileage.
** The Grimsey Island we paddled to is not to be confused with the more famous and remote Grimsey Island, 40 km off the coast of northern Iceland, and within the Arctic Circle. Still, this little Grimsey Island had plenty of charm and bird life.
Information about the sea kayaking trips offered by Sea Kayak Iceland can be found on their website. They do have trips in less remote or exposed areas, and trips of shorter lengths.
SKI also hosts a Sea Kayaking Symposium, a great way to get introduced to Iceland while building skills in this unique environment.
SKI Guides and John Carmody can provide information about nautical charts for the paddling area of interest. I was able to obtain a free download of an OSM chart of Iceland for my GPS that worked for kayaking as well as day hikes.
Bring warm clothing and a warm sleeping bag for this trip! Although I have never owned a cag, if I were to paddle again in this kind of cold and windy environment, I’d use a cag or an oversize rain jacket to help keep me warm while off the water in my drysuit. Most importantly, bring sufficient coverage for your hands while on and off the water. The old pair of neoprene Glacier Gloves (not fleece lined) that I took were almost useless, and I don’t recommend them in these environments. Using nitrile gloves under the neoprene gloves did not help at all, contrary to some recommendations. The NRS gloves that Guðni loaned me were far superior, and I ordered similar gloves after the trip. They have worked great for cold weather paddles. Pogies seemed to work well for other paddlers. Other paddling forum users reported using Showa Atlas gloves while paddling in very cold environments. These are definitely warm but are difficult to dry once they are wet, which is a big disadvantage.
Upon arrival in the Reykjavik airport, there is a small cafe shop in the arrivals area that follows customs. You can purchase a SIM card at that shop, but you have to inquire at the cash register; they are not on display. (Don’t forget your paperclip.) I subsequently learned that an e-sim is the simplest way to proceed, as there are e-sims that cover all of the EU. They can be easily purchased at home and activated upon arrival at your destination.
If you have access to Alaskan Airlines from the U.S., this was the most straightforward carrier and offered the best flights to Iceland. Dick and Jerry flew Alaska and had excellent service and convenient flight times. I flew Air Canada, which was a disaster. They had a mandatory layover in Montreal, where they refuse to speak English, and there is great confusion about whether layovers require re-checking luggage through customs. Also, flights were delayed, and their service left a lot to be desired.
On a personal note, this trip offered me an epiphany about sea kayak expeditions: I need a smaller boat! After this trip, I sold my Priijon Kodiak, which I had purchased (used) primarily because it could hold three bear cans (important for longer trips in Alaska and Canada). I have since purchased an NDK Pilgrim Expedition, and am enjoying paddling more than ever. This kayaking trip in Iceland made me fall in love with sea kayak expeditioning all over again!